Waffles, those delightfully crisp and patterned treats, have a history that stretches back further than one might imagine. Believed to be among the oldest of desserts, waffles have evolved from a simple leavened batter cooked between two patterned plates into a global phenomenon, enjoyed with a variety of sweet or savory toppings.
The story of waffles begins in Ancient Rome, where they were known as "crustulum"—a sweet biscuit adored by the Romans. Food scholar Giorgio Franchetti, author of "Dining With The Ancient Romans," suggests that these biscuits were likely the precursor to modern waffles, sharing a similar method of preparation. Although the exact shaping of crustula remains a mystery, it is thought that they were flat and baked using the same basic ingredients as contemporary waffles.
Crustula were a sweet adaptation of "panis obelius," a Greek bread made with olives or fresh figs and cooked between two irons, traditionally consumed during Dionysian rituals. These Roman biscuits were made with flour, honey, and lard, and were a popular treat during religious ceremonies and later as a reward for students in wealthy households.
As the Roman Empire spread, so too did the crustula, eventually making their way into the culinary traditions of France, Benelux, and England. The Middle Ages saw further development of these biscuits, with the first grooved patterns appearing, bringing them closer to the waffles we know today.
The link between Roman crustula and modern waffles is believed to be the Italian "ferratelle," a biscuit still enjoyed in various regions of Italy. These were often homemade and marked with family crests or initials using special irons, and were particularly popular during Christmas and carnival celebrations.
The journey of waffles to the New World is attributed to the Dutch settlers who arrived in New York City in the early 1600s. It was here that the crustula-ferratelle transitioned into the waffle as we recognize it today, eventually becoming a staple in American cuisine.
Now, waffles are celebrated worldwide, with National Waffle Day in the United States commemorating the anniversary of the patent granted to Dutch-American Cornelius Swarthout for the first waffle iron in the country. From their humble beginnings as a Roman delicacy to their current status as a beloved global treat, waffles have come a long way, offering a taste of history with every bite.
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